Riverport Brewing Co.'s River-Rat Red

 

    The local jazz pub in Pullman is called Rico's. It's not managed by a guy named Rico, owned by a guy named Rico, nor perhaps, even frequented by anyone named Rico. But it is a great place to enjoy a beer. When I was there on my birthday this last week, I thought I would take advantage of that and down a delicious pint.

    My selection was the River Rat Red by the Riverport Brewing Company out of Clarkston, Washington. Now Clarkston is a humble little burg that manages to be downwind of both the local paper mill and the local sewage treatment plant, so I had some laughable concerns regarding the beer as the 'tender placed the cold glass before me: "I hope the beer doesn't smell like farts, too."

It didn't. In fact, it smelled a lot like a beer I knew I would enjoy drinking.

The rich amber of the River Rat Red gave off a delectable aroma. It was a sort of acrid hoppiness that promises a dynamic taste. The armoa reminded me of tailgating parties and football-watching sessions: a bright, warm room, good friends and snacks in every direction, laughter, howls of indignation, cheering, and the feel of a cold brew resting lazily between your fingers and the couch's arm-rest. The R.R.R. smelled just like the beer for such an occasion. Luckily, it tasted that way, too!

The moderately hoppy-bitterness of the first contect is unique in my beer experiences. I can only describe it as a sort of "low" taste. But in the sense of elevation, not as in "base" or anything negative like that. The flavor just sinks into your pallet, as if it payed rent for the room in the basement of your mouth.

As the beer transitions into the body portion of the experience, the brew escalates in a caramel-ish bitterness that peaks in an orange-y climax. Then, a tangy sweet hop finish follows the beer down the hatch. I especially liked how this portion of the beer contrasts with the first contact. The initial "low" flavor develops into a "high" one in a matter of moments. In fact, a line graph of this beer would follow the parabolic arc of a James Cameron plot-line: Start low, go high, then hit an iceberg and sink.

The R.R.R. is a great beer from the unassuming edge of Washington State. Its playfully tangy flavors make it a joy to drink, and its rich, hoppy soul is sure to satisfy. My advice would be to give this diamond in the rough a try.